From cherry lips to Cupid’s bow, lips have never been hotter. This is thanks, in part, to TikTok, where individuals — mostly women — who have undergone lip filler procedures showcase their “before” and “after.”
Since 2015, lip filler has come back into style, partially thanks to Kylie Jenner’s influence. Her openness about getting the procedure opened the eyes of many, increasing buzz on social media for dermatologists.
In 2023, over 1.4 million people in the U.S. chose to get lip filler, a procedure that individuals undergo to augment their lips in the style of their choosing, according to the American Society of Plastic Surgeons. The global market size for lip filler procedures is estimated to grow from around $518 million in 2024 to $738 million by 2034, according to Yahoo Finance.
Lip filler usually involves adding volume to certain parts of the lips to make them appear fuller and more youthful. In the U.S., the Food and Drug Administration has approved the use of lip fillers for people over the age of 21.
A broad range of patients seek the treatment. They may be looking to correct lip asymmetries, reduce wrinkles, define lip shape or add natural-looking fullness to their lips.
“They can be very simply used to add a little bit of volume that has been lost with aging,” said Dr. Ivona Percec, M.D., Ph.D., associate director of cosmetic surgery at Penn Medicine. “Or, they can be used in another extreme, where they’re applied to recontour and reconstruct almost the entire lip complex.”
The procedure typically lasts no more than two hours. First, the trained professional numbs the lips using an anesthetic. A syringe is then used to inject lip filler, usually containing hyaluronic acid, into the parts of the lips the patient wants to be enhanced. Side effects are bruising and swelling for a couple of weeks.
Vanessa Eidenberg, a senior health science major at Drexel University, opted for Restylane Kysse. Restylane Kysse is a gel filler composed of hyaluronic acid to add volume to and create a smoother lip. This type of filler is intended to give a more natural-looking lip result with minimal side effects.
“I personally like bigger lips on myself,” Eidenberg said. “I think it makes my face look more even.”
Eidenberg had the procedure done this past summer by a dermatologist in King of Prussia. That procedure was actually a fix for a botched procedure six months before when a medical professional injected the wrong filler.
On average, patients usually maintain the look by making appointments every four to six months. Sometimes, filler can last up to 18 months. However, it depends on how quickly a person’s metabolism breaks down the hyaluronic acid.
Lip filler isn’t cheap, but it also isn’t the most expensive of cosmetic procedures. In 2023, the average cost of surgeon/physician fees for lip augmentation with injectable materials was around $698.
Social media is definitely a factor in the rise of the procedure, along with peer influence. Eidenberg said she got a Restylane Kysse after her friends did.
For Phyllis Anastasio, Ph.D., professor of psychology, that’s just how it all works.
“I think that is where the root of the influence of social media, in particular, begins, is that unbelievably strong need to feel like we are accepted or that we belong,” Anastasio said.
Anastasio said all ages are on social media, and all ages are impacted when it comes to the draw of procedures like lip filler.
“Honestly, I see on social media lots and lots of women who are middle-aged and older having that done,” Anastasio said.
Percec said lip fillers follow trends and styles popular on social media, and that the current trend is for both lips to be of equal volume.
“Typically, the natural ideal contour of the lips is a 40-60 ratio, with the upper lip being 40% of the volume of the lower lip,” Percec said. “But right now, we’re looking at idealized appearances where they’re about 50-50, so the upper lip is the same as the lower lip. That’s something that over the last decade or so, it’s been more desired.”
Percec also said she has seen a rise in transgender people “seeking out lip treatment for gender affirmation.”
As with any procedure, there are risks, Percec said.
“There are always concerns when you inject something into your body — bleeding, infection, asymmetry. There are always risks of developing nodules,” Percec said. “Also, you can injure an artery by inadvertently injecting a little product in there, which can cause tissue necrosis.”
Eidenberg said ultimately she was happy with her choice and plans on getting refills in the future.
